Anything and everything can be used to create art in your book. Below are materials for some of my favorite techniques. They can be purchased on-line and at local art supply stores.
The ESSENTIALS.
A book(s) to alter / upcycle. Gesso. Mod Podge or Gel Medium. Parchment paper. Large clips.
With the collage / travel kit you received in the workshop and these essentials combined with whatever else you have on hand, such as pencils, markers, crayons, paints, brushes, etc. you can continue with the book we altered in the workshop or get started on another book.
Below are some recommendations and additional tips to gather your essentials. On top is an index, clicking on the word will jump you to the document section for that topic. Then click on the underlined words in the text for more info about the product and to Amazon and other stores for purchases. I do not receive compensation when you purchase from the links; the links are only for your reference to product information.
Books
Gesso
Mod Podge or Gel Medium
Top Coats/Finishing. Unsticking pages.
Large Clips
Fun additional supplies
SLOT BOOK VIDEO – a future workshop. watch to get some IDEAS for your book.
A no longer need stitched hard cover book to alter. I gravitate towards ones with old yellowed pages and worn covers, but select a book that you find interesting to alter. It can be a thick or thin book. Look for books to repurpose and upcycle at yard sales, library book sales, thrift stores, and more.
You can also purchase a blank journal. Blank journals can be purchased at discount stores and online in singles or bulk.
When I want to create a special journal, my favorite leather covered blank journals are from Jenni Bick. When using these fine leather covered books, the pages are usually heavy weight so I collage and draw and paint in one layer directly on the pages. I do not remove pages to make more room for layered pages like I do when altering an old book, since technically I am not altering a book, but journaling in “one dimension”.
Gesso
There are different brands to explore. Some are thicker than others and considered better quality. You can even try your hand at making your own (see a recipe below). In general, I like my gesso to be thick rather than thin. The thicker the better, I can always thin it down with water (for acrylic based gesso) and if it has a grit and I want it smooth I can sand it. Although, I often like the grit since for mixed media the grittiness becomes another layer of welcome texture.
In the workshop we used white matte Premiere by Nicole Gesso for Canvas from AC Moore.
Black and clear are also available options. It is also tintable.
Liquitex or Gumbacher are my favorite brands.
As we discussed in the workshop, whether or not you use gesso depends on what techniques you plan to use and if you want a solid background to work on or if you want to block out the text. Gesso is very similar to acrylic paint, but it is thinner and dries stiffer so it turns your book (page) into a firm substrate.
Although it is not a primer, it can be thought of working similar to one. I use gesso to prep pages so liquids (water, glue, paint, etc.) do not soak through into the other pages in the book, but if I am drawing with a Micron pen or colored pencils or using gelato sticks (see below) I sometimes mark directly onto the pages without a prepared ground of gesso.
I do not recommend using it as a glue since it is stiff.
Make Your Own Gesso Recipe
• 1/4 cup taclum powder.
• 1 tablespoon white glue.
• 1 tablespoon white paint.
• water to desired consistency.
To strengthen your book (stacking pages and joining signatures) and for adhering layers (collage). Mod Podge or Gel Medium can be applied with a nylon brush or a foam brush. I don’t recommend a chip brush because the hairs fall out (unless you want that texture :-). Whichever one you use, it is best to use the matte rather than the gloss. When traveling with my collage kit, I use a glue stick.
I prefer matte gel medium, instead of Mod Podge, and my favorite brands are made by Liquitex or Golden. I prefer the matte gel medium because it is not sticky (see info below about finishing pages) and I think it has better archival properties. However, Mod Podge is very popular and works nicely, especially when stacking pages.
See more info follows about sticking in the top coat section of this article.
Many of the products used in our books are designed for flat areas, not for face to face pages that are pressed together. This is particularly true for Mod Podge. In fact, there is no guarantee that pages won’t fuse whatever you use, so if I have a page that is precious I suggest that you keep the pages separated with parchment paper. This method only works as long as the parchment is kept between the pages, if giving or selling a book the recipient might not remember to keep the parchment in between the pages, so you might want to explore a more permanent solution to help prevent pages from fusing or sticking.
Explore encapsulating / top coating or finishing your pages with the following methods / materials as you work and when pages are completed. What you use might depend on the materials used to create your collage / art work on the page:
Candle – rub a candle on its side over your artwork. Best to use a white unscented candle. Many journal artists have success with this method.
Dorland’s Wax. It may dissolve ink so do a test on a separate inked sheet first.
Gamblin Cold Wax and Dorland’s Wax are both beeswax mixed with other ingredients. Do not heat these cold waxes. Allow them to cure. I recommend also using parchment with these waxes. They usually dry with a film, but can be reworked later. Use a light coat.
Sand paper – lightly sand your artwork. Start with a light sanding using super fine or very fine grit. Sanding may lighten your images.
Talcum powder or corn starch – apply a light coating (remember it is white so it will change the colors on your page). Shake off the excess, but do not rub it off.
Parchment baking paper. You can buy it in rolls at the supermarket or online.
I buy parchment in folded sheets at the Ocean State Job Lot.
Sprays – I haven’t used sprays much on my book spreads, except for fixatives over pastel or charcoal work. Instead in my books, I use parchment, a candle or lightly pour a small amount of minwax on my page spread (since I have it on hand for other projects) and move it around with a disposable gloved hand. But many artists use sprays and like the results.
When using any of these products I recommend that you test them on a small patch or set up a separate page with some of the materials you’ve used (paint, paper, etc.). You can even simultaneously create this test page on the side as you are creating. You’ll then have a history of what works. If using spray apply it in light coats and in a well ventilated protected area (outside if possible). Do not heat these finishes.
Because the pages are more likely to stick with Mod Podge, I recommend using the matte gel medium on any pages that will be face to face and then, with exceptions based on the materials you’ve used, you will not need to add a top / finish coat. Use you judgement and test the compatibility of all your materials.
Unsticking fused pages:
Here’s a method to try for unsticking fused or sticky pages – put the book in the freezer overnight and then try to separate the pages while cold or they may come apart on their own. Put parchment between the unstuck pages until they come to room temperature and you can seal them.
Large clips to hold open your pages as you work.
Sometimes I find it helpful to clip these to the edges of the open spread in the book as I work. The colored ones are fun! ( I also use them as sous vide clips – but cooking is a different topic 🙂
FUN MATERIALS FOR SPECIAL TECHNIQUES.
SLOT BOOK VIDEO – in a future workshop we will hand craft a book like this for you to fill . At time clip 1:05 in this video you can see a glimpse of a slot, in the center fold, that gives this book technique it’s name. Take a peek to gather IDEAS of spreads to put in your altered book.
Paint: watercolors, acrylics – your choice. Below are my recommendations. Oils in this instance will probably take too long to dry, but they can be used, especially if mixed with certain mediums. If you have oils that you would like to use email me and we can go over the pros and cons. I like a number of different brands. I use Gamblin oils and inks. Sennelier acrylics, pastels, etc. and Earth Pigments as bench marks.
Acrylics: Liquitex or Golden’s tubes for price and quality. This six pack of primary colors is a good starter set.
I suggest getting a large tube of titanium white, a tube of black, and 3-5 of your favorite colors. A set of primary colors is a good way to start and to mix your own colors. They can be thinned with water. Acrylics are shiny so I sometimes add gesso to them if I want them to be matte.
If you prefer, small bottles they are available from craft stores made by Apple Barrel / Plaid and Martha Stewart Satin and Martha Stewart Pearl/Metallics from craft stores or online. I like using the Martha Stewart paints for gel print deli sheet background papers.
Watercolors: Pan and tube sets. Arteza has many sets in various price ranges. Many of the inexpensive sets work nicely for this purpose, my favorites are the metallics. I just started using these pan watercolors called Koi. They are a little more expensive than generic watercolor paints, but are nicely pigmented.
I also like to use water color pencils and blend my work with a brush and water. And waterproof watercolor pencils.
Pastels or Gelato sticks: My favorite are the Fiber Castell gelatos. They are like crayons, but not crayons if that makes any sense. You will undertstand after you use them. They are made as translucent, brights, iridescents, and more. Sold as singles and in sets.
For pastels, some are dry, some are waxy, I suggest you play to see which you like. Oil pastels are waxy, like crayons. Soft pastels are powdery like charcoal and smudge / blend. Hard pastels work well with other media and can be smudged. Sennelier oil and Sennelier soft are excellent pastels.
Collage papers. Make your own deli sheets or citra solv sheets. Or collect paper from magazines, old books, newspapers, tissue, etc.. Or buy scrapbook papers.
To make deli sheets you will need a gel printing plate. A brayer / soft roller and printmaking baren work nicely to smooth the deli sheets with your hands.
Bone folder or old credit card for burnishing, book binding, and smoothing edges as you collage. Here is a bone folder made from ox bone and a set made from plastic. In the description on Amazon for the plastic set is some nifty info on the different bone folder shapes and how to use them.
Focal points. Make your own or collect them from magazines, old books, newspapers, online, packaging, etc.. Tim Holtz puts together nice bundles of die cuts like the dolls in your kit.
Brushes. Various types and sizes. Many sets to chose from, here is one.
Graphite pencil Stabilo #8046 – for shading and integrating focals into backgrounds. Smudge with a very lightly wet finger or brush.
Ink pens – My absolute favorites are black Micron pens in all point sizes.
Gel pens – I especially like these white ones in assorted point sizes by Sakura to make dots.
Citra Solv sheets – beware this process is addicting.
Spray or spot wipe this cleaner / degreaser concentrate on clay coated paper which is the heavy glossy paper used to print magazines and certain books; examples are National Geographics and high fashion magazines. A little bit of degreaser goes a long way.
Info about using the product in art projects is on the manufacturers website.
Deli Sheets. If you just want a few sheets of the deli paper, ask at your local deli. Otherwise, you can buy a box and also use them as place mats to line your workspace or as palette paper.
Utility Knife. Exacto brand.
Metal ruler. My favorites are the 12” and 18” metal ones with cork backing because they don’t slip as I tear paper. I love tearing paper!
They are sold at the Ocean State Job Lot https://www.oceanstatejoblot.com/premiere-stainless-steel-ruler-with-cork-back-12/product/70253 or click the link above to order on-line.
Cloth & Ribbon. Start collecting it! I hoard fine knits and leather. And I use embroider floss. Buy it at Joanne Fabrics or The Franklin Mill. My favorite local shop, and a well kept secret, is a sewing / quilting shop in an old mill in Lincoln, RI on the Cumberland border called RYCO Trim http://www.rycotrim.com/
Ink pads. Once you’ve used StazOne ink pads there is no going back to others. Best to get ink pads that dry quickly and do not smear on multiple surfaces. Other ink pads for special effects.
Heat Gun. I like this Ranger gun, it is simple and doesn’t get too hot. It’s nice to use this as you work to decrease drying time. You can use a blow dryer, but unlike a gentler heat gun, it will blow things around – including the tools on your workspace. I also use the Ranger heat gun for acrylic pour paintings.
So many materials to choose from and to collect – playing cards, computer images, packaging, etc. the list can do on and on. Don’t feel that you need to wait to create until you have certain materials, use what you have on hand and recycle items. I think you will have the most fun if you start to look around and collect “things” as you see them.
Contact me if you have any questions or need a refresher on any techniques or materials, especially prepping your pages – see my post on this topic.
I hope you have found this information helpful. Now go have fun! Work in your book regularly, have a few books going at once, so you can say yes to your creativity as often as possible and benefit from art as meditation. – Jacqueline
SUPPLY LIST
MIXED MEDIA ART JOURNAL WORKSHOP 2019
Jacqueline Burke Volpe
The Creativity Curator
Email: thecreativitycurator@gmail.com
Website: www.thecreativitycurator.com
I do not receive compensation if you purchase using the links; the links are only for your reference to product information.